Villars-sur-Ollon is a traditional Swiss resort in the Vaud Alps, built on a south-facing terrace above the Rhône Valley. Unlike the purpose-built concrete stations of the French Alps, Villars is a working town with a year-round population, wooden chalets, and several international boarding schools. The local skiing connects with Gryon and Les Diablerets to form a large, intermediate-friendly network of groomed pistes. Getting to the slopes often involves taking the historic BVB cogwheel train, which climbs straight from the valley floor at Bex up to the main ski area at Bretaye. The terrain is mostly gentle, with tree-lined runs and wide bowls facing the Dents du Midi. The combination of easy access, sunny slopes, and a relaxed village atmosphere has made it a long-standing favourite for families and weekend visitors from Geneva. While it lacks the extreme vertical drops of Chamonix or the vast interconnected mileage of the Trois Vallées, it offers a highly polished, comfortable ski experience in a spectacular setting.
Mountain culture & milestones
The village of Villars-sur-Ollon was originally a summer pasture area for farmers from the valley town of Ollon. The transition from agriculture to tourism began in the late 19th century, but the real catalyst was the completion of the Bex–Villars–Bretaye (BVB) railway. The first section reached Villars in 1901, bringing wealthy tourists up from the valley and establishing the town as a summer health resort.
By 1913, the track was extended up to the Col de Bretaye at 1,806 metres, which remains the centre of the ski area today. This opened the high mountains to early winter sports enthusiasts. In 1936, Villars installed its first mechanical ski lift at the Combe on the Chaux Ronde. It was an early Swiss prototype that required skiers to strap themselves into a large leather belt to be pulled up the hill. This replaced the exhausting practice of hiking up the slopes on sealskins.
By the late 1930s, the town was established as a major winter sports centre, attracting an international crowd. The resort also developed a reputation for education, with the founding of elite boarding schools like Aiglon College in 1949 and Collège Alpin International Beau Soleil. These institutions brought a permanent international community to the mountain, shaping the town’s cosmopolitan character and ensuring its economic stability beyond the winter tourist season.
Valley bases: where to stay
The ski area is anchored by three distinct villages, each offering a different atmosphere and access point to the mountain. Villars is the largest and busiest, acting as the main transport and accommodation hub. It has the widest selection of hotels, ranging from historic luxury properties to modern apartments, alongside the majority of the shops and restaurants.
Gryon, situated slightly lower down the mountain, is much quieter and retains more of its original farming character. It is a popular choice for families looking for a peaceful base, with access to the slopes provided by the Barboleuse gondola. Les Diablerets sits in a separate valley to the north. It is an authentic alpine village that feels more isolated than Villars, serving as the gateway to the Glacier 3000 ski area.
| Base | Altitude | Vibe |
|---|---|---|
| Villars-sur-Ollon | 1,258 m | Main transport and accommodation hub |
| Gryon | 1,114 m | Quiet, traditional farming village |
| Les Diablerets | 1,200 m | Authentic alpine village, gateway to the glacier |
Ski sectors at a glance
The local lift pass covers three linked mountainsides, which you can ski between without taking a bus. The sectors vary in altitude and orientation, providing different conditions throughout the day.
| Sector | Key features |
|---|---|
| Villars (Bretaye) | Sunny plateau, wide blue and red runs, cogwheel train access |
| Gryon (Les Chaux) | Tree-lined pistes, quieter slopes, great for intermediates |
| Les Diablerets (Meilleret) | Long cruising runs, north-facing slopes, connection to Glacier 3000 |
The mountain & skiing
The core Villars–Gryon–Diablerets network has just over 100 kilometres of pistes. The layout heavily favours intermediates. Most of the skiing happens on wide blue and red runs that roll through open bowls before dropping into the treeline. The vertical drop from the top of the local lifts down to the village is about 900 metres, which is enough for satisfyingly long descents without burning out your legs.
The Bretaye sector is the heart of the skiing, accessible by the cogwheel train from Villars or the gondola to Roc d’Orsay at 2,000 metres. From here, skiers can cruise down long, sweeping red runs back to the village, or head over the ridge towards Gryon. The slopes above Gryon, particularly around Les Chaux, are quieter and feature excellent tree-lined runs that offer good visibility on snowy days. The Meilleret sector above Les Diablerets provides some of the longest continuous runs in the area, winding down through the forest.
Advanced skiers will quickly run out of steep on-piste challenges. There are very few black runs, and the local topography does not naturally lend itself to extreme gradients. However, the terrain between the marked runs holds good off-piste lines after a storm, particularly the bowls under the Chaux Ronde and the trees above Gryon.
If the lower slopes lose their snow, the regional lift pass includes access to Glacier 3000. Reached via a short bus ride from Les Diablerets to the Col du Pillon, the glacier offers high-altitude skiing up to 3,000 metres. The highlight here is the spectacular 8-kilometre run down the Combe d’Audon, a challenging red piste that descends through a remote, rocky valley far from the lift system.
The village & après-ski
Villars is a large working village, so it does not feel deserted when the lifts close. Unlike purpose-built resorts that only exist for winter tourism, Villars has a permanent population of over 1,000 residents. The main street has a mix of traditional Swiss restaurants serving fondue and raclette, bakeries, sports shops, and international dining options.
The après-ski scene is quiet and understated. People tend to gather on sunny terraces or in wine bars rather than dancing on tables in ski boots. There are a few lively pubs near the train station, but the atmosphere is generally geared towards families and older skiers enjoying a relaxed drink after a day on the hill. You will not find the aggressive partying associated with St Anton or Ischgl here.
Because the town hosts several large international boarding schools, there is a constant local population that keeps the cafes and shops busy all winter. This gives the village a cosmopolitan feel, with multiple languages spoken in the bakeries and supermarkets. The architecture is strictly controlled, ensuring that new developments maintain the traditional chalet style with carved wooden balconies and sloping roofs. The town also features a large sports centre with indoor swimming pools, ice rinks, and wellness facilities, providing plenty of options for non-skiers.
Snow & season
The lifts usually open in mid-December and close in mid-April. The village sits at 1,258 metres, which is low, but most of the skiing happens between 1,500 and 2,120 metres.
Because the mountain faces south, the pistes get a lot of direct sun. This makes for pleasant skiing in January and February when the temperatures are low and the sun provides welcome warmth. However, it means the lower runs can get slushy and melt out quickly by late March. The resort relies heavily on artificial snowmaking to keep the home runs open late into the season, but the snow quality inevitably suffers on the lower slopes as spring approaches.
When the local snow deteriorates, skiers usually take the bus up to the Glacier 3000 area for better conditions. The glacier guarantees skiable snow from November through to May, acting as an insurance policy for the whole region during poor winters. The north-facing slopes of the Meilleret sector above Les Diablerets also hold their snow better than the sunny bowls of Bretaye, offering an alternative when the south-facing runs get too soft.
Summer & year-round
Villars stays open in the summer. The lift system and the cogwheel train keep running to take hikers and mountain bikers up to the high pastures. The area has hundreds of kilometres of marked trails across the Vaud Alps, ranging from gentle walks around mountain lakes to demanding ascents of the surrounding peaks.
The town also has an 18-hole golf course at 1,660 metres, which looks directly across the valley at Mont Blanc. Founded in 1922, it is one of the oldest mountain golf courses in Switzerland. Other summer activities include tennis, swimming, and exploring the nearby salt mines at Bex. The presence of the international schools means the sports facilities in the village are exceptionally well-maintained and open year-round. The region also hosts several summer festivals and cultural events, maintaining a steady flow of visitors long after the snow has melted.
Safety & mountain etiquette
The marked runs are heavily patrolled and well-maintained. If you leave the piste, you are in unpatrolled, unsecured mountain terrain. The off-piste areas around Bretaye and Les Diablerets have hidden rocks and terrain traps that are not obvious from above. The local avalanche bulletin is updated daily, and skiers are expected to check it before leaving the marked trails.
You should hire a local mountain guide if you want to ski the backcountry. The local guides know the safest routes and can provide the necessary avalanche safety equipment. Up on Glacier 3000, the weather can change from clear skies to a whiteout in minutes, so skiers need to pay attention to the forecast and respect the high-alpine environment. Skiing on a glacier also carries the risk of crevasses, so it is strictly forbidden to leave the marked trails in the glacier zone without a guide.
Who it suits best
The resort works best for families and intermediate skiers who want a quiet, traditional Swiss town. The blue runs around Bretaye are wide and forgiving, making it an excellent place for beginners to progress. There are enough red runs to keep most people occupied for a week of relaxed cruising, and the lift system is easy to navigate.
It is a poor choice for expert skiers looking for steep, challenging pistes, or for groups who want loud nightlife. The lack of tough black runs means advanced skiers will need to rely on off-piste conditions or travel to other resorts for variety. The low village altitude also means it is not the best option for late-season trips unless you are willing to commute to the glacier. However, for those who value scenery, good food, and a relaxed pace, Villars is hard to beat.
Getting there
The nearest major airport is Geneva, located 120 km away. For train travel, the nearest mainline rail hub is Bex. From there, the BVB cogwheel railway climbs directly into the centre of the village.
External links
- Villars-Gryon-Les Diablerets Official Site
- Glacier 3000
- Swiss Federal Railways (SBB)
- SLF Avalanche Bulletin
This guide is published by Alps2Alps for general information only. It is not affiliated with Wikipedia or any resort, airport, or lift operator. Facts were accurate at the time of writing; always check official sources before travel.
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