Les Coches

Positioned just one lift away from the vast Vanoise Express cable car, this Tarentaise village provides immediate access to the 425-kilometre Paradiski domain without the concrete aesthetic of higher-altitude purpose-built resorts. Les Coches acts as the upper half of the Montchavin-Les Coches commune, sitting at 1,450 metres among thick pine forests. It was developed in the early 1980s with a strict mandate to replicate traditional Savoyard architecture, meaning the village consists almost entirely of low-rise wood and stone chalets with heavy slate roofs. Skiers choose this location primarily for its connectivity. Because it borders the physical boundary between the La Plagne and Les Arcs ski networks, visitors can commute easily into either side of the mountain depending on weather conditions or group ability. The local tree-lined slopes offer excellent visibility during whiteout days, while the altitude ensures reliable snow cover back to the village for most of the season. It is a quiet, car-free environment that prioritises family access and straightforward ski-in, ski-out logistics over late-night venues.

Mountain culture & milestones

The story of the area begins with its lower neighbour, Montchavin. In the early 1970s, Montchavin was an abandoned farming hamlet suffering from severe rural depopulation. The mayor of Bellentre at the time, Auguste Mudry, initiated a project to transform the area into a ski destination to create local jobs and retain the population. Architect Michel Bezançon and developer Guy Champ took charge, renovating the old farm buildings rather than demolishing them to make way for tower blocks.

A decade later, in 1981, the community expanded uphill to create Les Coches at 1,450 metres. Bezançon returned to design this new tier, enforcing a strict aesthetic code. Developers used timber cladding, exposed stone, and traditional “lauze” slate roofs to maintain a rustic profile. The first building inaugurated was Residence La Clef, which set the tone for all future development in the village.

The most significant operational change for the resort occurred in 2003 with the opening of the Vanoise Express. This double-decker cable car spans the Ponturin valley without any supporting pylons, linking the Peisey-Vallandry sector of Les Arcs directly to the Montchavin-Les Coches sector of La Plagne. This single piece of engineering created the Paradiski domain overnight, transforming the two villages from quiet outposts into the central hub of one of Europe’s largest ski areas.

Valley bases: where to stay

Visitors usually choose between the original Montchavin village at 1,250 metres and the upper satellite of Les Coches at 1,450 metres. Both are fully pedestrianised, meaning you leave your vehicle in designated parking areas on the outskirts. The two tiers connect via the free Coches gondola and a regular shuttle bus service, making it simple to travel between them in the evening.

Montchavin maintains the atmosphere of a working farm village. It features the original Sainte Agathe chapel, a functioning farm, and the Espace Paradisio aquatic centre. Accommodation here leans towards renovated farmhouses, smaller catered chalets, and traditional guesthouses. The narrow streets and old stone walls give it a character that purpose-built resorts lack.

Les Coches offers a more conventional ski-in, ski-out experience. The residences weave directly through the treeline, giving most apartments immediate access to the lower blue and red pistes. The central pedestrian square contains the main ski school meeting points, equipment rental shops, and bakeries. It feels more like a modern resort than Montchavin, but the strict architectural controls prevent it from feeling sterile.

Base Areas in the Montchavin-Les Coches Sector

Ski sectors at a glance

The immediate local skiing belongs to the La Plagne side of the Paradiski map. The terrain directly above Les Coches consists entirely of forest runs, providing a sheltered environment when high winds or heavy snow close the upper glaciers.

Local Ski Sectors

The mountain & skiing

The local terrain directly above the village focuses heavily on accessible progression. Beginners start on the gentle, tree-lined slopes near the Plan Bois lift. These lower pistes rely on natural contours, making them winding and scenic rather than straight and intimidating. The local ski schools use these areas extensively because the trees provide a sense of scale and keep the wind down.

Intermediates use Les Coches as a springboard. From the top of the local lifts, you can ski down into the Plagne Bellecôte bowl to access the wider 225-kilometre La Plagne network. Alternatively, you can take the short traverse to the Vanoise Express and cross over to Les Arcs. This flexibility means you rarely have to ski the same sector twice in a week. The Arpette lift on the La Plagne side is a common route for pushing further into the domain, leading towards Plagne Centre and Plagne 1800.

Advanced skiers often head straight for the Bellecôte glacier on the La Plagne side or the Aiguille Rouge on the Les Arcs side. The local Montchavin woods also offer excellent off-piste tree skiing. Because most crowds rush to the higher bowls, the powder in the lower forests often remains untracked for days after a storm. The trees provide necessary definition and contrast during whiteout conditions, making this the best place to ski when visibility drops at higher altitudes.

The village & après-ski

Les Coches does not target the late-night party demographic. The après-ski scene is low-key, centering on a handful of relaxed bars rather than loud clubs or table-dancing venues. The White Lines Pub operates as the primary venue for evening drinks, often hosting live music and screening winter sports events. It provides a comfortable place for a pint after the lifts close, but it rarely stays open late into the early hours.

Dining options focus on traditional Savoyard menus. You will find raclette, fondue, and tartiflette in most restaurants around the main pedestrian square. Establishments like La Poya and L’Origan serve local dishes using regional cheeses and cured meats. The emphasis is on long, sit-down meals rather than quick fast food.

Non-skiing activities lean heavily toward families. The Espace Paradisio complex down in Montchavin offers indoor pools, saunas, balneotherapy, and hammams. The villages also organise outdoor activities such as snowshoe walks, fat biking, dog sledding, and paragliding. A covered ice rink operates in the village centre throughout the winter, and local guides run nocturnal tours of the old Montchavin farm buildings.

Snow & season

The winter season generally runs from mid-December through to the final week of April. While a base altitude of 1,450 metres is relatively modest for the French Alps, the local microclimate and slope orientation help preserve the snowpack. Many of the runs dropping into the village face north or northeast, protecting the snow from direct afternoon sun and slowing the spring melt.

The resort supplements natural snowfall with a comprehensive network of snow cannons on the lower arterial runs. This artificial coverage ensures the home runs remain open and skiable down to the village level late into the spring. The tree canopy also helps block wind, preventing the snow from being scoured off the pistes.

For early December or late April trips, skiers rely on the rapid lift connections to reach the two glaciers in the Paradiski area. The Bellecôte glacier in La Plagne and the Varet glacier in Les Arcs both exceed 3,000 metres, guaranteeing winter conditions even during milder periods in the valley. The 2,000-metre vertical drop from the top of Bellecôte down to Montchavin is one of the longest continuous descents in the region, provided the snow holds at the bottom.

Summer & year-round

When the snow melts, the Montchavin-Les Coches area transitions into a summer activity hub. The resort maintains its Famille Plus accreditation during the warmer months, offering around 70 different outdoor pursuits.

Mountain biking is a major draw, with the local chairlifts operating through July and August to transport downhill riders to the upper trails. The Paradiski area provides hundreds of kilometres of marked cross-country and enduro routes, ranging from wide fire roads to technical singletrack descents.

Hikers use the village as a starting point for trails venturing into the Vanoise National Park. The proximity to the park boundary means walkers can easily reach protected high-altitude environments where marmots, chamois, and ibex are common. The Espace Paradisio remains open in summer, providing a recovery option after long days on the mountain. The resort also hosts the “Family Race”, an obstacle course event that runs through the village and surrounding forests, encouraging parents and children to compete together.

Safety & mountain etiquette

The tree-lined nature of the local slopes requires specific awareness. Skiing through the forest off-piste carries risks like tree wells and hidden rocks. Skiers venturing off the marked runs should carry full avalanche safety gear – transceiver, probe, and shovel – and know how to use it, as the trees do not prevent slides on steeper pitches.

When using the Vanoise Express to cross between La Plagne and Les Arcs, pay close attention to the operating hours. Missing the last cable car back across the valley results in a very long and expensive road taxi ride from Bourg-Saint-Maurice back to Les Coches. Lift operators strictly enforce the closing times, and the weather can occasionally force the lift to shut down early due to high winds. Always check the digital display boards at the lift stations for the latest closure times.

On the higher Bellecôte glacier, skiers must respect the rope boundaries. Crevasses pose a serious danger immediately off the marked pistes, and hiring a local mountain guide is essential if you plan to explore the glacial terrain.

Who it suits best

Families with mixed abilities find the area ideal. The car-free village layout means children can walk around safely, and the local beginner slopes provide a secure learning environment. The architecture and quiet evenings appeal to those who prioritise atmosphere and early nights over a loud clubbing scene.

Intermediate and advanced skiers who want to cover maximum distance benefit from the central location. By staying near the Vanoise Express, mileage-hungry skiers can efficiently explore both halves of the Paradiski domain without wasting hours crossing from the far edges of either resort.

The resort does not suit groups looking for vibrant après-ski or budget travellers seeking cheap, high-density apartment blocks. It also might frustrate beginners who specifically want wide, high-altitude bowls right outside their door, as the immediate local runs are narrower forest trails.

Getting there

– Nearest airports: Chambéry Airport (105 km), Geneva Airport (145 km), Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport (195 km) – Nearest rail hub: Landry / Bourg-Saint-Maurice

Written by the Alps2Alps editorial team.

This guide is published by Alps2Alps for general information only. It is not affiliated with Wikipedia or any resort, airport, or lift operator. Facts were accurate at the time of writing; always check official sources before travel.